Faffs and White Knuckles

By Colin McFadden
This post is part of a series called Rwanda 2025
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Today was just a travel day, from Kigali to Lake Kivu. I’m now settled into the amazing Umutuzo Lodge, and I’m looking forward to a couple days of exploring.

This morning, I decided to try Move, which is a ride hailing service by Volkswagen which operates in Rwanda. I was curious to see how a country specific ride hailing service from a German car company would work. The answer is not especially well – the app is flakey and the driver might have scammed me into paying twice (not actually sure if it was a scam or bad software).

Once I was back at the airport to pick up my rental car, there was another faff, when the Europcar credit card reader wouldn’t process the temporary deposit. In the end, I was able to withdraw some US dollars via the Forex place to give a cash deposit (I didn’t want to be stuck with a ton of Rwanda Francs at the end of the trip). Eventually all was sorted, and I got my rental car.

The drive to Lake Kivu is around 160km, and everyone said it would take around three hours. Which feels optimistic. It’s a country of 1000 hills after all, and each one of those hills has a semi truck going under 5mph. After about an hour of absolutely crawling, then about half an hour of pretty intense road construction, I was treated to almost two hours of gorgeous twisting mountain roads on fresh asphalt. Not especially sporty in a Toyota Rav4, but fun nonetheless.

The last half hour was some serious white knuckle driving on dirt and rock “roads” with big gullies and seriously sketchy terrain. I don’t have any useful photos, but maybe I’ll grab some (on foot) tomorrow.

It was all worth it in the end – I’ve got a gorgeous bungalow at the lodge. I’m the only guest tonight (more are arriving tomorrow) so I had dinner with the owner, a Belgian named Phillipe. He built the lodge starting about 5 years ago, after falling in love with Rwanda. I’ll share more about the setting once I’ve had some time to explore.

2 thoughts on “Faffs and White Knuckles

  • Susan H McFadden September 29, 2025 at 4:17 pm Reply

    Lovely place, though hard to get there. At first I read the title as “falls and white knuckles” so was glad to learn it was “faffs” though they don’t sound pleasant either.

  • Judith Shekmar September 29, 2025 at 9:07 pm Reply

    Hi Colin. I’m sure we were on some of those same or very similar roads in Rwanda but as you, I loved every minute of my visit ( except for the bug I brought home with me so be careful)
    I would make Africa a yearly visit if I physically could.
    Please keep your blogs coming – I love reading them !

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